View Full Version : Spiral Vallisneria turning transparent?

02-06-2012, 09:57 AM
I have a 55 gallon planted tank with discus and rainbows...not too heavily planted, just a few anubias, some swords, java fern & java moss. Have some spiralis planted in several areas, and they are showing new leaves, but after a week the leaves turn transparent...*scratching head*... the swords and anubias are all growing new leaves and looking fine.

Ph is 6.2, CO2 is 32ppm, lighting is 2 x 56W T5 daylights, substrate is gravel over fluorite.

Any ideas on what is happening to the spiralis? Haven't seen new runners yet, just some new leaves. CO2 system has been running for about a month or so.

Many thanks!

02-06-2012, 10:08 AM
I would guess that you are missing some iron. I would add plantex to your tank.

02-06-2012, 06:19 PM
It sounds like you have a twin tube HOT5 fixture with CO2 injection. The spiralis may be running out of either nitrogen or iron and is showing the deficiency symptoms first. A couple of questions; first, what fertilizers are you dosing, and how often and how much? Second question; why run a high light, CO2 injected tank with plants that would do fine with med low to med light levels?

02-07-2012, 01:07 PM
The fixture is a T5 HO 4-bulb, 2 are actinic and 2 are the 5k(daylight?)...only the daylight ones are on. I have not dosed any ferts, there is about 2 inches of fluorite and then an inch of regular gravel. I used to have a standard 2-bulb regular strip light , but nothing grew with no CO2 - only java moss and duckweed, which I got rid of. I've tried regular vallisneria, run-of-the-mill amazons, anubias, wisteria, rotala...nothing. At least now I am getting new leaves on my amazons & anubias...

02-07-2012, 06:41 PM
Depending on the wattage your 2 bulb regular strip light had, it easily could have been inadequate to grow anything, as the stock lighting usually isn't enough to grow much of anything except low light plants which will grow slowly, if at all.
Your current set up with high light and CO2 will need regular fertilizer dosing, or you will end up with deficiency symptoms on your plants and a algae problem. I would suggest EI dosing if you want to make the high light setup work for you. With the light and CO2 you have, you should be getting rapid growth on your spiralis and swords and java ferns, so I think you are nutrient limited, which is inviting an algae problem.

02-09-2012, 10:35 AM
Guess I'll be looking around for some Fluorish or something similar...thanks!

02-10-2012, 07:02 PM
I recommend dry ferts from greenleafaquariums.com
I get my ferts from there, and I dose my high light 55 gal at least once a week with 10g KNO3, 5 g K2SO4 2.5 g plantex, 2.5 general hardness booster, and 1 g KH2PO4. 50% water change every two weeks.

Since my 55 gal is heavily planted you may be able to reduce the amounts of fertilizers by half or more, but with an aquarium that large, dry fertilizers are much cheaper than the line of flourish products, as in $20 of fertilizers would last a couple of years at my dosing rate.

Due to having discus, (which I think may be nitrate sensitive) you may need to add the ferts more often in smaller doses.

02-11-2012, 10:16 AM
Igster, Flourish provides only micro nutrients. It won't help with nitrogen, and has only a small amount of iron. To get what you want from Flourish, you would also need Flourish Nitrogen and maybe even Flourish Iron as well. Now we've gone over $30, and may or may not have solved the problem! I suggest you pick up what the others are saying...Plantex has the micros, and the other dry ferts are much cheaper.
The "other" Brian, plant rookie

02-13-2012, 07:53 AM
Quote "10g KNO3, 5 g K2SO4 2.5 g plantex, 2.5 general hardness booster, and 1 g KH2PO4."

Thanks Everyone! But, I have no way of weighing out dry chems, much less in grams. Guess I'll have to invest in a laboratory scale...

02-13-2012, 08:12 AM
Check out your levels phosphate first. In two of my tanks, I've having 1 ppm regularly and do not need to add any. Where are you located? I can provide you some with the correct measurements.

02-13-2012, 08:16 AM
I'm in Stone Mountain, GA...

02-13-2012, 08:26 AM
Just placed an order with Greenleaf - their mixed package with KN03, K2S04, K2P04, and Plantex...and I can pick up a kitchen scale that weighs in grams at a local Wally World :)

02-13-2012, 05:14 PM
Just placed an order with Greenleaf - their mixed package with KN03, K2S04, K2P04, and Plantex...and I can pick up a kitchen scale that weighs in grams at a local Wally World :)

You can get by without a scale. Lots of sites/forums with dosing info, can just get a set of those small measuring spoons.

02-15-2012, 12:10 PM
Been doing a bit of reading...I am assuming I can add dry ferts directly to the tank as long as I calculate the right amounts(and not mix the macros with the micros directly), whether I am following EI or PPS?

02-15-2012, 06:28 PM
I like to add the dry ferts to a bottle or a cup with some water, shake it all about, and then dump it into the tank. That way it doesn't clump up.

02-17-2012, 11:07 AM
I'm going to go the "stock solution" route...dissolving them into 1 liter of water, giving me two ready-to-use solutions(one for macros and one for micros) and then add 5 mls of each a day to the tank, according to the PPS method and the "Yet another nutrient calculator".

02-17-2012, 02:20 PM
That should be fine premixing some stuff. But some things you don't want to mix at the same time, potassium sulphate if you mix it with any fertilizer that has iron in it, end up with iron phosphate which will clump up.

02-24-2012, 08:31 AM
I have been dosing for a week now, using the PPS-Pro method, and have not noticed much in the way of extra growth in my tank...and the plants that I got last Saturday from Petland do not look happy at all. Do plants undergo a period of adjustment when put into a new environment, until they start sprouting like crazy again?

02-24-2012, 09:07 AM
Yes, at least in my experience, depending of the plants and if it already has roots or not, but regardless it took a few weeks to establish new roots. Also, when I started my DIY CO2, I saw huge different in growth and health. Also, Brian told be to add some calcium in the form of gypsum, which I also do. Here is the thread: http://www.atlantaaquarium.com/showthread.php?4869-Plants-breaking&highlight=calcium+plant

02-24-2012, 10:51 PM
If the aquarium has been severely deficient on a nutrient, some of it may be absorbed by the substrate to start off with, it can take 2 or 3 weeks for the effects to start showing up.

03-13-2012, 11:52 AM
It's been a month now, and I am still not seeing any appreciable growth. The few giant Val leaves that have sprouted have turned brown & faded; the spiral val has completely disappeared; my rotala has had no growth at all; the swords have had a few leaves sprout but they are staying small(under 3 inches); the only thing that seems to be happy is a floating island of wisteria, which is branching out and sending roots down from the surface...

*scratching head*

03-15-2012, 11:40 AM
I'm kind of late on this and not very experienced but how's the ammonia level in the tank? I find high ammonia will cause most plants to bleach out and die. And dead plants cause ammonia levels to go up.

Chris Noto
03-16-2012, 12:14 PM
Igster, no one has yet mentioned that Vallisneria seems to require carbonate hardness as one of its sources of carbon, as opposed to many plants, which are able to get by on CO2 alone. Here's a Google Search (https://www.google.com/search?q=valisneria+and+carbonate+hardness&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a) on "vallisneria and carbonate hardness" that even yielded a thread from our forum here that I'd posted in!

Good luck with your Vals.

03-17-2012, 05:03 PM
My ammonia is 0, pH is 6.0, CO2 is 32ppm, nitrites/nitrates both at 0, kH is 1*, GH is also 1*.